our meaning of bespoke
Our bespoke service has little changed since the founding of the house in 1958. We run on-site production so you can see how our master and apprentices ply their needles in the shop. You will meet our cutters and tailors directly to discuss how your creation is styled. When you visit us, you will meet the makers of your garments and witness how we are plying the needles. The relationship between the craftsmen and wearers defines our bespoke experience.
What Is the Meaning of Bespoke?
We continue refining our cuts in reaction to the changing appetite in fashion. Every commission starts with an individual pattern, a more generally accepted definition of bespoke. Yet the construction of our bespoke creations adheres to the strict traditional standard and requires over fifty hours of handwork. Time and craftsmanship are the backbone of quality.
Why Do We Still Hand-Sew a Suit
We stick with hand stitching whenever the end result is better. Our persistence in the traditional method is our commitment to craftsmanship. The defining feature of bespoke is the layers of hand sewn canvases that give structure and flexibility to the jacket body. Our interlinings are cut to the shape of each jacket and assembled together by hand from the chest area to the shoulder to give a soft touch and comfort incomparable to machine sewn canvases. The shoulder area is concave to fit the collarbone area of human body, thus giving a natural and elegant shape.
What Is a Padding in Tailoring?
The lapel is always hand padded, resulting a distinguished and lively roll. The tapings on the roll line and outer edge are secured by hand stitching to give a defined edge and serve as an additional support along the bias.
What Are Hand-Made Pockets in Tailoring?
The seam allowance of welt pocket is trimmed to give a thin finish on the side so it runs smoothly on the jacket body. The hand sewing ensures the stitching line is unnoticeable. The double piping pocket is sewn with an open seam construction in which a pocket opening machine cannot resemble the same. This makes sure the pocket opening area lay flat with the body.
Why Do We Sew the Collar and Sleeves by Hand?
The collar is constructed with a melton and pressed into shape to fit the slope of the wearer’s shoulder. Our gorge line is sewn from the outside using a ladder stitch to bring the top collar and the lapel facing together without visible stitching. This also prevents undesirable slippage if the top collar is attached to the facing using a sewing machine. All our sleeves are set by hand to ensure they hang gracefully with wearers’ posture. When working on plaid fabrics, it is sometimes achievable to match the pattern on the front and the back as well.
Details of Bespoke Tailoring
The very edge of the collar, the lapel, the jacket front and pocket flaps are finished with prick stitch to guarantee a permanently crisp edge. Buttonholes are all handworked with silk thread, a hallmark of bespoke tailoring. Our in-house buttons are specially custom made with tiny holes, sharp edge and a slightly polished finish, resulting a distinctive and stylish look.